The Slow Way

Japan 2017

– · 51 days

Snow-capped Mount Fuji framed by leafy branches, rising above hazy forested ridges under a blue sky

Note that this travel has survived the migration through several blogging platforms. In the process some of the original images were lost. As a result, you might notice that some of the images have significantly lower quality. I am still keeping them here, so that you have an idea of the original message, even though you might not be able to enjoy the details of high quality image.

Tokai Nature Trail (東海自然歩道) — 1697 km from Tokyo to Osaka. Well, kind of. This is the total distance with all the forks and alternative routes included. The actual distance you hike is less than that — unless you do plenty of detours.

In 1969, the Japanese Ministry of Welfare announced the Tokai Trail plan as the first attempt to establish a long-distance trail system in Japan. The Tokai Trail connects Tokyo to Osaka and was welcomed by the general public. The trail passes through the prefectures of Kanagawa, Yamanashi, Shizuoka, Aichi, Shiga, Gifu, Mie, Kyōto and Nara, connecting important National Parks along the way.

  1. Tōkai Shizen Hodō—Japan’s first long-distance trail
  2. On the wayEight-hour stopover in Rome
  3. Tokyo, day 0Long story short, I’m in Japan
  4. Tokyo, day 1Raiding hiking gear shops in Tokyo
  5. Tokyo, day 2Calligraphy museum, Ueno zoo, and meeting a real calligraphy master
  6. Tōkai Shizen Hodō, day 1Mt. Takao to an abandoned campsite
  7. TSH, day 2Land leeches, pathfinding through landslides, and pushing my limits
  8. TSH, day 3Emergency rations, a thunderstorm, and a night in a mountain hut
  9. TSH, day 4First views of Mt. Fuji after morning rain
  10. TSH, day 5Fuji temple, ice cave visit, and a traditional inn with no wifi – perfect
  11. TSH, day 6Resting to my heart’s content at Shoji-ko lake
  12. TSH, day 7Mountains shrinking to hills, then marshlands
  13. TSH, day 8Late start, destroyed trail, bear warnings
  14. TSH, day 9Construction detours and finding my own spot in the mountains
  15. TSH, day 10Hiking through hordes of leeches in the rain
  16. TSH, day 11Stairs into clouds, silent hill fog and more trail magic
  17. TSH, day 12Mt. Oyama through young bamboo and spiderweb
  18. TSH, day 13Rest day in Shizuoka
  19. TSH, day 14Utoge Falls and the best camping so far
  20. TSH, day 15Completely drenched from head to toes
  21. TSH, day 161300-year-old cypress tree, too big for a photo
  22. TSH, day 17Ended up at a temple with futon and miso soup
  23. TSH, day 18Crossing into Aichi prefecture
  24. TSH, day 19A rest day
  25. TSH, day 20Second rest day in a row
  26. TSH, day 21Spectacular ridge views and camping on a parking lot
  27. TSH, day 22600km left to Osaka
  28. TSH, day 23Historic salt-trading village with maples
  29. TSH, day 24Mountain cabin turned out to be just a resting spot with a roof
  30. TSH, day 25Bats, fighting animals, stuffed humid air and free chocolate
  31. TSH, day 26Fantastic view from Mt. Miroku
  32. TSH, day 27Crazy thunderstorm right above my head
  33. TSH, day 28–30–Mid-point celebration and castle mountain
  34. TSH, day 31Hot shadowless valley walk
  35. TSH, day 32Landslide detour and traditional fish restaurant
  36. TSH, day 33Dodging rain like a console game, checkpoint to checkpoint
  37. TSH, day 34Dozens of animal protection fences
  38. TSH, day 35River camping with palm-sized crabs
  39. TSH, day 36Rain. Then rain. Then more rain
  40. TSH, day 37Festival in Seki – all accommodations full
  41. TSH, day 38Rest day and a festival in Seki
  42. TSH, day 39More hiking in the nature and some ninja
  43. TSH, day 40Hiking and giant tanuki
  44. TSH, day 41Rain, mountains, sore feet and Biwa lake
  45. TSH, day 42Biwa lake views and small onsen inn
  46. TSH, day 43Sitting under inn’s roof while rain pours
  47. TSH, day 44Reached Kyoto, Arashiyama
  48. TSH, day 45Rest day in Arashiyama
  49. TSH, day 46Mt. Ponpon to Ryuo-san
  50. TSH, day 47Mino-O waterfall marks the end: 47 days, through-hike complete